Suggested Itinerary &
Trek update (November 2014)
Note: what follows is not meant to replace your guide book, and is no more then a succinct quick reference account of what we found along our way in November 2014.
Day 1: Kathmandu to Arughat:
Those on a budget trek will take the bus to Arughat Besar, departing around 8 am and arriving around 5 pm. Trekking agencies will usually buy your ticket a day ahead to guarantee seating for you and your guides. Ticket cost is 4 $.
After the first 3 hours, your bus will switch on a dirt track winding up steep hills amongst rice and barley fields. It is extremely slow, with many pick up and drop off of passengers and their belongings in tiny villages. The experience is chaotic, infuriating and fascinating, at least for those freshly landed in Asia.
There are plenty of lodges in Arughat on the west bank of the Buri Gandhaki; it is unlikely that you will be able to continue straight on to Soti Khola, so let your guide take you to his favourite guest house.
Those hiring a jeep (180 $ whole car from Kathmandu) will get to Soti Khola on day one; there is little to be gained aside from relative transport comfort as you will probably not have enough daylight time to walk to the first lodges in Lapu Besi; but if you do, Lapu Besi is a great spot with very pleasant accommodation.
Day 2: Arughat Besar to Macha Khola (alt. 850m)
4/5 hrs from Soti Khola
This is a fairly long day. Start off around 7 am on the 3hr bus trip to Soti Khola, 2 $. The dirt track is rough, the bus slow and crowded, but the way is very scenic.
Put on your gear, and start along the west bank trail, often clinging to the side of the river along high cliffs. There are a lot of donkey and mule caravans here, your guide will make sure that you stick to the cliff side whenever a mule train comes the other way. The trail goes up and down, but not too steeply, and you should reach Lapubesi with its beautiful rice terraces in a little more then 2hrs, which is a perfect lunch stop.
Push on to Macha Khola still along the west bank, sometime walking on the sandy river side, that you will reach in a further 2 ½ to 3 hrs. In Macha Khola the lodge on the left hand side (riverside of the trail) is marginally better.
4/5 hrs from Soti Khola
This is a fairly long day. Start off around 7 am on the 3hr bus trip to Soti Khola, 2 $. The dirt track is rough, the bus slow and crowded, but the way is very scenic.
Put on your gear, and start along the west bank trail, often clinging to the side of the river along high cliffs. There are a lot of donkey and mule caravans here, your guide will make sure that you stick to the cliff side whenever a mule train comes the other way. The trail goes up and down, but not too steeply, and you should reach Lapubesi with its beautiful rice terraces in a little more then 2hrs, which is a perfect lunch stop.
Push on to Macha Khola still along the west bank, sometime walking on the sandy river side, that you will reach in a further 2 ½ to 3 hrs. In Macha Khola the lodge on the left hand side (riverside of the trail) is marginally better.
Day 3: Macha Khola to Jagat (alt. 1350m)
5 to 6 hrs
From Macha Khola you will continue along the west bank for just under 2 hrs to the settlement of Tato Pani (hot springs). The springs are right by the path and are hot indeed. A couple of tea houses offer a pleasant morning break on the nicely paved high street. The trail switches to the east bank of the Buri Gandhaki shortly beyond Tatopani and after many rises and drops the village of Dovan is reached. There are adequate tea houses for lunch around here.
After Dovan, the going gets tougher with a number of steep climbs up the valley; it is still hot and things can get a bit painful here. Level ground will be reached after around 1 ½ hr; the valley widens here as does the river. Cross over back to the east bank about ½ and hour before the final climb to Jagat.
Jagat is a compact but important village, with tidy paved street and painted houses. Your Manaslu permit and MCAP permit will be checked here.
There are a number of lodges; we stayed at the second one on the left coming into the village which proved to be adequate but no great shakes.
5 to 6 hrs
From Macha Khola you will continue along the west bank for just under 2 hrs to the settlement of Tato Pani (hot springs). The springs are right by the path and are hot indeed. A couple of tea houses offer a pleasant morning break on the nicely paved high street. The trail switches to the east bank of the Buri Gandhaki shortly beyond Tatopani and after many rises and drops the village of Dovan is reached. There are adequate tea houses for lunch around here.
After Dovan, the going gets tougher with a number of steep climbs up the valley; it is still hot and things can get a bit painful here. Level ground will be reached after around 1 ½ hr; the valley widens here as does the river. Cross over back to the east bank about ½ and hour before the final climb to Jagat.
Jagat is a compact but important village, with tidy paved street and painted houses. Your Manaslu permit and MCAP permit will be checked here.
There are a number of lodges; we stayed at the second one on the left coming into the village which proved to be adequate but no great shakes.
Day 4: Jagat to Lokpa (Tsum Valley, alt. 2200m) or Dheng (Manaslu circuit, alt. 1850m)
5 hrs to Lokpa, 6 to 7 hrs to Dheng
Dheng can easily be reached in a day from Jagat; it is a fairly long day, but only very slightly more so then day 3.
Get your permits checked in Jagat and head off towards Philim; the going is good here and the village is reached in around 2 hrs, after crossing back to the east bank of the Buri and a short steep climb. Philim is an important village with lots of new lodges, a mobile phone antenna, internet and restaurants; those coming from Jagat will get here before 10 am.
Push ahead, there is a good place to eat at Chiso Pani about 1hr ahead, across from some springs. If it is still too early for your lunch and are heading along the Manaslu trail you can keep going a further hour or so till the trail crosses back to the west bank of the river. There is a simple teahouse some distance after the bridge.
Those heading to Tsum will take a well signposted right turn before the bridge. A steep climb to Lokpa follows, bringing you up 500 meters in little more then an hour. The lodge and farmstead at Lokpa has been recently built, has solar generated hot water and is in a very nice spot. It is very busy in season.
Back on the Manaslu circuit, Dheng will be reached in a bit more then 2 hours after the Tsum valley junction. This section is fairly hard going, crossing again to the east bank of the river and back, with steep climbs. The scenery is distinctively more alpine here, and the nights are a lot colder.
There are two lodges that I know of in Dheng, the blue one and the old one. The blue one was fine.
For those heading to Tsum, keep on reading at the end of this chapter.
5 hrs to Lokpa, 6 to 7 hrs to Dheng
Dheng can easily be reached in a day from Jagat; it is a fairly long day, but only very slightly more so then day 3.
Get your permits checked in Jagat and head off towards Philim; the going is good here and the village is reached in around 2 hrs, after crossing back to the east bank of the Buri and a short steep climb. Philim is an important village with lots of new lodges, a mobile phone antenna, internet and restaurants; those coming from Jagat will get here before 10 am.
Push ahead, there is a good place to eat at Chiso Pani about 1hr ahead, across from some springs. If it is still too early for your lunch and are heading along the Manaslu trail you can keep going a further hour or so till the trail crosses back to the west bank of the river. There is a simple teahouse some distance after the bridge.
Those heading to Tsum will take a well signposted right turn before the bridge. A steep climb to Lokpa follows, bringing you up 500 meters in little more then an hour. The lodge and farmstead at Lokpa has been recently built, has solar generated hot water and is in a very nice spot. It is very busy in season.
Back on the Manaslu circuit, Dheng will be reached in a bit more then 2 hours after the Tsum valley junction. This section is fairly hard going, crossing again to the east bank of the river and back, with steep climbs. The scenery is distinctively more alpine here, and the nights are a lot colder.
There are two lodges that I know of in Dheng, the blue one and the old one. The blue one was fine.
For those heading to Tsum, keep on reading at the end of this chapter.
Day 5 (day 10 from Tsum): Dheng to Namrung (Manaslu circuit, alt 2650m)
5 to 6 hours
This is a fairly easy stage despite the altitude gain. The trail meanders between what is now the north and south bank of the river, There are a lot of waterfalls and side streams, a fair few up and downs and the trail goes through alpine meadows and cultivated terraced fields.
Ghap, about 4 hrs from Dheng makes a good lunch stop. A further 2 hrs and a bit will take you to Namrung, there is a nice brand new stone built guest house in the forest well before the steep climb to Namrung if you wish to have a shorter day.
After climbing steeply for an hour through a beautiful coniferous forest, you will reach Namrung. There is a brand new guest house here as well, a 4 star establishment by the prevailing standards with 2 star prices, boasting large rooms, exceptional stone architecture, hot showers, clean toilets and internet. Food is ok too, mattresses are thick and there is electric light.
5 to 6 hours
This is a fairly easy stage despite the altitude gain. The trail meanders between what is now the north and south bank of the river, There are a lot of waterfalls and side streams, a fair few up and downs and the trail goes through alpine meadows and cultivated terraced fields.
Ghap, about 4 hrs from Dheng makes a good lunch stop. A further 2 hrs and a bit will take you to Namrung, there is a nice brand new stone built guest house in the forest well before the steep climb to Namrung if you wish to have a shorter day.
After climbing steeply for an hour through a beautiful coniferous forest, you will reach Namrung. There is a brand new guest house here as well, a 4 star establishment by the prevailing standards with 2 star prices, boasting large rooms, exceptional stone architecture, hot showers, clean toilets and internet. Food is ok too, mattresses are thick and there is electric light.
Day 6 (day 11 from Tsum): Namrung to Syala (alt. 3500m)
5 hours
This is an other easy day, once again despite the altitude gain, allowing plenty of time for a long lunch in Lho admiring Manaslu and a side trip up to the impressive Lho Gumpa.
The 3 to 4 hour walk to Lho follows the south bank of the river. The scenery is beautiful, local culture distinctively Tibetan Buddhist and the climb to Lho at 3100 m is painless. Sho makes for a good mid morning tea break, while Lho is an ideal lunch spot, if you can pick up your jaw that is after admiring Manaslu towering above the village. There are many brand new lodges here, including some very pleasant looking ones.
Take a side trip up to the gumpa reached in ½ hr from the village, swamped with apprentice monks and in full expansion. The gumpa itself is modern, quite garish in fact but the whole complex is impressive, the atmosphere joyful and the views amazing.
Push on up to Syala, only a steep climb away. Pace yourself, the climb is hard and relentless but takes little more then an hour.
The views from Manaslu and Himal Chulli from Syala are breathtaking, and sunrise watch is a must. There are two or 3 guest houses in the village, nothing great but all are adequate even if cold once the sun sets.
5 hours
This is an other easy day, once again despite the altitude gain, allowing plenty of time for a long lunch in Lho admiring Manaslu and a side trip up to the impressive Lho Gumpa.
The 3 to 4 hour walk to Lho follows the south bank of the river. The scenery is beautiful, local culture distinctively Tibetan Buddhist and the climb to Lho at 3100 m is painless. Sho makes for a good mid morning tea break, while Lho is an ideal lunch spot, if you can pick up your jaw that is after admiring Manaslu towering above the village. There are many brand new lodges here, including some very pleasant looking ones.
Take a side trip up to the gumpa reached in ½ hr from the village, swamped with apprentice monks and in full expansion. The gumpa itself is modern, quite garish in fact but the whole complex is impressive, the atmosphere joyful and the views amazing.
Push on up to Syala, only a steep climb away. Pace yourself, the climb is hard and relentless but takes little more then an hour.
The views from Manaslu and Himal Chulli from Syala are breathtaking, and sunrise watch is a must. There are two or 3 guest houses in the village, nothing great but all are adequate even if cold once the sun sets.
Day 7 (day 12 from Tsum): Syala to Sama (alt. 3550m); side trip to Punggen Gumpa (4100)
1 hr direct to Sama, 5 hrs including side trip to Punggen.
Sama is just over an hour away from Syala. This can therefore be considered as a rest day. Half way between the two is the turn off to Punggen Gumpa. In my (humble) view no Manaslu trip is complete without a visit to Punggen, not because of the gumpa but because of the incredible setting right at the foot of a large amphitheatre of peaks over 7000 meters high. If you have a porter, you could leave him in charge of your packs at the junction and go up to the Gumpa only with your day bag. It takes a bit more then 1 ½ hr (maybe 2 if you are having acclimatization difficulties) to reach Punggen. You will spend about an hour up there to soak up the view, then it is a bit more then an hour back down and 30 min to Sama.
Sama is a real hub, a very large village full of contrast. As many people stay two nights here for acclimatization, there are twice the normal amount of lodges; there is internet, hot showers, and in the evening the stoves gets stoked up in guest houses dining rooms. On the other hand, the traditional center of the village is purely medieval, with many families leaving from subsistance agriculture and spending the long harsh winter in a state of semi hibernation. The vast majority of the village's inhabitants are of Tibetan origin.
If you spend two nights here, the traditional day hike for the next day is to Birendra Tal (a glacial lake at the foot of the Manaslu glacier) and, for those with a lot of stamina, up to Manaslu base camp at 4400. According to those who tried it, this is not an easy climb.
1 hr direct to Sama, 5 hrs including side trip to Punggen.
Sama is just over an hour away from Syala. This can therefore be considered as a rest day. Half way between the two is the turn off to Punggen Gumpa. In my (humble) view no Manaslu trip is complete without a visit to Punggen, not because of the gumpa but because of the incredible setting right at the foot of a large amphitheatre of peaks over 7000 meters high. If you have a porter, you could leave him in charge of your packs at the junction and go up to the Gumpa only with your day bag. It takes a bit more then 1 ½ hr (maybe 2 if you are having acclimatization difficulties) to reach Punggen. You will spend about an hour up there to soak up the view, then it is a bit more then an hour back down and 30 min to Sama.
Sama is a real hub, a very large village full of contrast. As many people stay two nights here for acclimatization, there are twice the normal amount of lodges; there is internet, hot showers, and in the evening the stoves gets stoked up in guest houses dining rooms. On the other hand, the traditional center of the village is purely medieval, with many families leaving from subsistance agriculture and spending the long harsh winter in a state of semi hibernation. The vast majority of the village's inhabitants are of Tibetan origin.
If you spend two nights here, the traditional day hike for the next day is to Birendra Tal (a glacial lake at the foot of the Manaslu glacier) and, for those with a lot of stamina, up to Manaslu base camp at 4400. According to those who tried it, this is not an easy climb.
Day 8 (day 13 from Tsum): Sama to Samdo (alt. 3700m)
3 hours
An easy walk at the bottom of the valley; you can take a side trip to Birendra Lake if you wish along the way. The Buri Gandhaki is not much more then a small stream here; most people wil have a good pant at the last hill. The air is certainly getting thinner.
Samdo is an extremely traditional Tibetan refugee village, and is probably the closest you will get to a representation of Himalayan village life of a (nearly) bygone era. There are three lodges, more being built. There is only solar power.
Most people will climb the backbone of the hill right behind the village, on a steep zig zagging path in low shrub. By the time you reach the highest set of prayer flags, you will be at 4400 meters. The view is stupendous, and you will get your first glimpse of the Larkya pass to the west.
A day trip to the Tibetan border is possible from Samdo in the right season.
3 hours
An easy walk at the bottom of the valley; you can take a side trip to Birendra Lake if you wish along the way. The Buri Gandhaki is not much more then a small stream here; most people wil have a good pant at the last hill. The air is certainly getting thinner.
Samdo is an extremely traditional Tibetan refugee village, and is probably the closest you will get to a representation of Himalayan village life of a (nearly) bygone era. There are three lodges, more being built. There is only solar power.
Most people will climb the backbone of the hill right behind the village, on a steep zig zagging path in low shrub. By the time you reach the highest set of prayer flags, you will be at 4400 meters. The view is stupendous, and you will get your first glimpse of the Larkya pass to the west.
A day trip to the Tibetan border is possible from Samdo in the right season.
Day 9 (day 14 from Tsum): Samdo to Darmhassala (Larkya Phedi, alt 4400m)
3 ½ hrs
A very scenic walk with a gradual climb on the northern slope of the valley. You are walking on mostly barren land, with many patches of snow, and the occasional blue sheep.
You will soon get to Darmhassala, a three building lodge complex that offers a few rooms and tents as well as basic food at incredibly high prices. Most people stop here before attacking the final stretch to the Larkya La pass. Go up the ridge above, have a wander, acclimatize, eat, drink and rest before the next day's 3 or 4 am start.
3 ½ hrs
A very scenic walk with a gradual climb on the northern slope of the valley. You are walking on mostly barren land, with many patches of snow, and the occasional blue sheep.
You will soon get to Darmhassala, a three building lodge complex that offers a few rooms and tents as well as basic food at incredibly high prices. Most people stop here before attacking the final stretch to the Larkya La pass. Go up the ridge above, have a wander, acclimatize, eat, drink and rest before the next day's 3 or 4 am start.
Day 10 (day 15 from Tsum): Darmhassala to Larkya La and Bhimtang (alt 5100m and 3700m)
8 to 10 hrs, more with heavy snow
This is the longest and most difficult part of the trek. Time spent crossing the pass depends hugely on snow conditions; it can take as little as 7 hours if the pass is clear, and as much as 12 in heavy fresh snow. We did it in 8 hrs in medium conditions.
Traditional starting time from Darmhassala is 3 to 4am, after a light breakfast. It is a very cold climb and you would be well advised to keep drinking water under a layer of clothes. It will freeze otherwise by the time you get to the top. It is a steady climb for the first 2 to 2 ½ hrs, to a small stone house, the way somehow monotonous under the beam of the headlights. The path then levels, going up and down various moraines. Soft snow makes progress sometime difficult, and at 5000 meter the air is very thin. Orientation is easy thanks to a trail of snow poles; you should reach the pass more or less by sunrise. It is traditional to add a small set of prayer flags to the thousand already floating in the wind.
The way down from the pass is more tricky, very steep and usually icy. This is where your ski poles will come in handy, as well as the sole spikes you carried all the way from Kathmandu. Some passages are exposed, and a lot of care is needed. You should overcome the difficult part in about an hour, and, though the way forward might still be steep and slippery, exposure diminishes hugely as you progress down the hill and move away from the glacier's edge.
You will catch a glimpse of the very green Pongkar lake, and walk the remaining 2 to 3 hrs to Bhimtang climbing down the huge moraine on a usually clear path, dropping some 700 meters more in the process.
There are two lodge clusters in Bhimtang, one with a new bungalow type lodge and a more traditional but new guest house at the entrance of the village, the other in the center of the 'village' proper. The posh lodge has internet.
8 to 10 hrs, more with heavy snow
This is the longest and most difficult part of the trek. Time spent crossing the pass depends hugely on snow conditions; it can take as little as 7 hours if the pass is clear, and as much as 12 in heavy fresh snow. We did it in 8 hrs in medium conditions.
Traditional starting time from Darmhassala is 3 to 4am, after a light breakfast. It is a very cold climb and you would be well advised to keep drinking water under a layer of clothes. It will freeze otherwise by the time you get to the top. It is a steady climb for the first 2 to 2 ½ hrs, to a small stone house, the way somehow monotonous under the beam of the headlights. The path then levels, going up and down various moraines. Soft snow makes progress sometime difficult, and at 5000 meter the air is very thin. Orientation is easy thanks to a trail of snow poles; you should reach the pass more or less by sunrise. It is traditional to add a small set of prayer flags to the thousand already floating in the wind.
The way down from the pass is more tricky, very steep and usually icy. This is where your ski poles will come in handy, as well as the sole spikes you carried all the way from Kathmandu. Some passages are exposed, and a lot of care is needed. You should overcome the difficult part in about an hour, and, though the way forward might still be steep and slippery, exposure diminishes hugely as you progress down the hill and move away from the glacier's edge.
You will catch a glimpse of the very green Pongkar lake, and walk the remaining 2 to 3 hrs to Bhimtang climbing down the huge moraine on a usually clear path, dropping some 700 meters more in the process.
There are two lodge clusters in Bhimtang, one with a new bungalow type lodge and a more traditional but new guest house at the entrance of the village, the other in the center of the 'village' proper. The posh lodge has internet.
Day 11 (day 16 from Tsum): Bhimtang to Gho (alt 2500m) or Dharapani (alt. 1800m)
4 or 7 hrs
It is all downhill after Bhimtang, and you will be racing down. All your extra red blood cells will boost your stamina hugely and you will stride down the valley at full speed.
There is a nice set of guest houses in Gho for those with a bit of time to spare, with hot showers and heated dining rooms, much better then anything you will find on the Annapurna trail.
Otherwise push on a few more hours, still going downhill to Dharapani, the road head on the Annapurna circuit. It is a tough return to the modern world, and most will feel a pinch of regret; the trek in the wild is over. Dharapani feels like a dirty city, even though it is jut a normal overgrown village, where you will find a range of ok lodges. You can arrange for jeep transport the next day to Besi Sahar if you wish to go back straight to Kathmandu or Pokhara.
4 or 7 hrs
It is all downhill after Bhimtang, and you will be racing down. All your extra red blood cells will boost your stamina hugely and you will stride down the valley at full speed.
There is a nice set of guest houses in Gho for those with a bit of time to spare, with hot showers and heated dining rooms, much better then anything you will find on the Annapurna trail.
Otherwise push on a few more hours, still going downhill to Dharapani, the road head on the Annapurna circuit. It is a tough return to the modern world, and most will feel a pinch of regret; the trek in the wild is over. Dharapani feels like a dirty city, even though it is jut a normal overgrown village, where you will find a range of ok lodges. You can arrange for jeep transport the next day to Besi Sahar if you wish to go back straight to Kathmandu or Pokhara.
Day 12 (day 17 from Tsum): Gho or Dharapani to Jagat (or Besi Sahar, or Kathmandu, or Pokhara)
A jeep from Dharapani to Besi Sahar can take 12 people and costs about 140$. There is a bus at about 11 am from Besi Shahar to Kathmandu (4$, 8 hours) or at around 12 (3$, 6 hours) to Pokhara.
We walked from Gho to Jagat with a lunch stop in Tal, and went back to town the day after. Some of the way between Dharapani and Jagat is made on the old path, some on the new road, on either side of the Kali Gandhaki river. It is very scenic, but coming from the beauties of higher altitudes, the whole thing feels comparatively a bit used and bland. It will soon become clear that it is now time to return to the 21st century, and most will catch a Jeep from Jagat to Besi Shahar on day 18.
A jeep from Dharapani to Besi Sahar can take 12 people and costs about 140$. There is a bus at about 11 am from Besi Shahar to Kathmandu (4$, 8 hours) or at around 12 (3$, 6 hours) to Pokhara.
We walked from Gho to Jagat with a lunch stop in Tal, and went back to town the day after. Some of the way between Dharapani and Jagat is made on the old path, some on the new road, on either side of the Kali Gandhaki river. It is very scenic, but coming from the beauties of higher altitudes, the whole thing feels comparatively a bit used and bland. It will soon become clear that it is now time to return to the 21st century, and most will catch a Jeep from Jagat to Besi Shahar on day 18.
The Tsum Valley
Day 5: Lokpa to Chumling (alt 2400m), 3 hrs.
This is a short day; you could push on to Chekempar straight from Lokpa, but this will involve something like 1500 or 2000 meter cumulative climb. We thought that would be a bit much and had no regrets. Or one could opt for the longer route on the south bank of the Syar Khola (Tsum valley's river) via Ripchet, a scenic village where there is a simple lodge, apparently well worth the detour according to those who chose to go that way.
We opted to leave some gear in Lokpa for pick up on the way back and travel a bit lighter. The walk on the south bank of the river from Lokpa is through dense forest. Look out for large, grey haired monkeys. There is a long (very long) climb about an hour out of Lokpa, through a nice pine forest, which is demanding. The track goes back down to the river straight afterwards, and you will find a tea shop next to the bridge over the Syar Khola and the junction to Chumling and/or Ripchet.
Cross the river, and climb to Chumling 30 to 45 min away. The lodge is right by the footpath, a rustic but OK affair. Mattresses are of the thin type here, but it is very convivial and the setting is fantastic. The main village is a 15min walk above the lodge, and it is well worth wandering around the surrounding countryside. There is an other lodge in the village but it looked closed when we went through.
Day 5: Lokpa to Chumling (alt 2400m), 3 hrs.
This is a short day; you could push on to Chekempar straight from Lokpa, but this will involve something like 1500 or 2000 meter cumulative climb. We thought that would be a bit much and had no regrets. Or one could opt for the longer route on the south bank of the Syar Khola (Tsum valley's river) via Ripchet, a scenic village where there is a simple lodge, apparently well worth the detour according to those who chose to go that way.
We opted to leave some gear in Lokpa for pick up on the way back and travel a bit lighter. The walk on the south bank of the river from Lokpa is through dense forest. Look out for large, grey haired monkeys. There is a long (very long) climb about an hour out of Lokpa, through a nice pine forest, which is demanding. The track goes back down to the river straight afterwards, and you will find a tea shop next to the bridge over the Syar Khola and the junction to Chumling and/or Ripchet.
Cross the river, and climb to Chumling 30 to 45 min away. The lodge is right by the footpath, a rustic but OK affair. Mattresses are of the thin type here, but it is very convivial and the setting is fantastic. The main village is a 15min walk above the lodge, and it is well worth wandering around the surrounding countryside. There is an other lodge in the village but it looked closed when we went through.
Day 6: Chumling to Burji (alt. 3200m), 5/6 hrs.
From Chumling onwards, you are penetrating into a sort of Shangri La, where the scenery keeps getting more and more stunning. Leaving Chumling, you follow the Syar Khola on its North bank on a pretty path for about an hour or a bit more. You then start to climb, first to the hamlet of Gho, after which the track becomes steep. You are in for an hour of hard labour in gorgeous surrounding. As you come close to Chekempar, the path levels and the valley widens, with snow capped peaks towering over. You are entering higher Tsum, with its definite Tibetan flavour, a place where nearly every one seems to smile and the 21st century has mostly yet to penetrate.
There are a couple of guest houses in Chekempar, with nice rooms and decent food for a lunch break. Burji is about two hours away; you also have the option to stop in a new guest house in Lamagaon. The guest house in Burji was run by a Nepali/western couple and was ok, maybe not the best value around but convivial. The gigantic monastery of Rachen Gumpa is an easy hop over the river (well, there is a bridge not far), worth a visit if you have few hours to spare in the afternoon. It is a modern and pretty functional religious center, still fairly interesting even for those who are not specifically Buddhophiles.
Milarepa's Cave right behind Burji and its associated gumpas can also be visited. We didn't indulge.
From Chumling onwards, you are penetrating into a sort of Shangri La, where the scenery keeps getting more and more stunning. Leaving Chumling, you follow the Syar Khola on its North bank on a pretty path for about an hour or a bit more. You then start to climb, first to the hamlet of Gho, after which the track becomes steep. You are in for an hour of hard labour in gorgeous surrounding. As you come close to Chekempar, the path levels and the valley widens, with snow capped peaks towering over. You are entering higher Tsum, with its definite Tibetan flavour, a place where nearly every one seems to smile and the 21st century has mostly yet to penetrate.
There are a couple of guest houses in Chekempar, with nice rooms and decent food for a lunch break. Burji is about two hours away; you also have the option to stop in a new guest house in Lamagaon. The guest house in Burji was run by a Nepali/western couple and was ok, maybe not the best value around but convivial. The gigantic monastery of Rachen Gumpa is an easy hop over the river (well, there is a bridge not far), worth a visit if you have few hours to spare in the afternoon. It is a modern and pretty functional religious center, still fairly interesting even for those who are not specifically Buddhophiles.
Milarepa's Cave right behind Burji and its associated gumpas can also be visited. We didn't indulge.
Day 7: Burji to Nile (alt 3300m) or Mu Gumpa (alt 3600m)
Mu 4 hrs
This is yet an other absolutely beautiful walk, on a fairly level path weaving around mani walls, chortens and gumpas, barley fields, stone built villages, colourful cluster of trees and streams. There is a sense of peace that emanates from the countryside, and few will be insensitive to it. The twin villages of Chhule and Nile are reached in under two hours; both are extremely pretty, very rural and welcoming. The guest house courtyard in Nile is a proper farm yard, with stables, farming gear and so on. A pleasant place for a mid morning break.
Many guides prefer their guests to stay here in Nile and them to take only a day trip to Mu Gumpa. They will invoke poor food at the monastery (true) and cold rooms (also true). But the true true reason is that they are charged a fairly high fee for food and lodging (over 5$) by the monks in Mu, and would prefer to avoid that. In my view, a night in Mu Gumpa is a must. If things get sticky with your guide & porter, offering to pay for their bill in Mu is likely to unlock the situation. Well worth 5 or 10 bucks.
Back on the trail, the valley narrows after Nile; you will spend the next 1 ½ hour climbing up the valley, at first gradually then more and more steeply in a barren landscape of great beauty. The last few hundred meters are quite hard in the very thin air.
Guest rooms are above the monastery and are quite comfortable; blankets are in the cupboards . The views from here are jaw dropping. It is all you would expect a Himalayan monastery to be. Visitors are welcome at the afternoon Puja, and the temple is open in the evening. Unlike in Manaslu, the Dalai Lama presides on ceremonies here, at least in image.
After lunch, it is well worth to pay a visit to the Nunnery about 45 min away and above Mu, at the head of a narrow path clinging to the mountain side. The Nunnery is in an even more stunning situation, and has an interesting temple. It is all very peaceful.
Those wishing to push on on the trail to Tibet can do so; there is no sign of interdiction and there does not seem to be any sort of control on the path. However, we met a group of American who tried to reach the border, and gave up after coming to a number of landslides area on the path just two hours away from Mu and deemed crossing them too risky. As the path is a main source of supply to the Tsum valley in summer, this is certainly only a temporary situation.
Mu 4 hrs
This is yet an other absolutely beautiful walk, on a fairly level path weaving around mani walls, chortens and gumpas, barley fields, stone built villages, colourful cluster of trees and streams. There is a sense of peace that emanates from the countryside, and few will be insensitive to it. The twin villages of Chhule and Nile are reached in under two hours; both are extremely pretty, very rural and welcoming. The guest house courtyard in Nile is a proper farm yard, with stables, farming gear and so on. A pleasant place for a mid morning break.
Many guides prefer their guests to stay here in Nile and them to take only a day trip to Mu Gumpa. They will invoke poor food at the monastery (true) and cold rooms (also true). But the true true reason is that they are charged a fairly high fee for food and lodging (over 5$) by the monks in Mu, and would prefer to avoid that. In my view, a night in Mu Gumpa is a must. If things get sticky with your guide & porter, offering to pay for their bill in Mu is likely to unlock the situation. Well worth 5 or 10 bucks.
Back on the trail, the valley narrows after Nile; you will spend the next 1 ½ hour climbing up the valley, at first gradually then more and more steeply in a barren landscape of great beauty. The last few hundred meters are quite hard in the very thin air.
Guest rooms are above the monastery and are quite comfortable; blankets are in the cupboards . The views from here are jaw dropping. It is all you would expect a Himalayan monastery to be. Visitors are welcome at the afternoon Puja, and the temple is open in the evening. Unlike in Manaslu, the Dalai Lama presides on ceremonies here, at least in image.
After lunch, it is well worth to pay a visit to the Nunnery about 45 min away and above Mu, at the head of a narrow path clinging to the mountain side. The Nunnery is in an even more stunning situation, and has an interesting temple. It is all very peaceful.
Those wishing to push on on the trail to Tibet can do so; there is no sign of interdiction and there does not seem to be any sort of control on the path. However, we met a group of American who tried to reach the border, and gave up after coming to a number of landslides area on the path just two hours away from Mu and deemed crossing them too risky. As the path is a main source of supply to the Tsum valley in summer, this is certainly only a temporary situation.
Day 8: Mu Gumpa to Chumling, 6 hrs.
Going back down valley is just as beautiful as going up, maybe more so. By now, the way is known and it is an opportunity for small side trips.
One of those is to Lungdang Gumpa though coming all the way from Mu to Chumling via Lungdang is very demanding. A better plan is to stay in Chekempar and go to Lungdang (and maybe Ganesh base camp) the next day. We didn't go to Lungdang, heard wonderful things about it afterwards and now regret not having made the effort.
In a direct line, Chumling is easily reached from Mu in a day. Chekempar is again a good lunch spot. But how about that side trip to Ripchet on the other bank of the river.....
Going back down valley is just as beautiful as going up, maybe more so. By now, the way is known and it is an opportunity for small side trips.
One of those is to Lungdang Gumpa though coming all the way from Mu to Chumling via Lungdang is very demanding. A better plan is to stay in Chekempar and go to Lungdang (and maybe Ganesh base camp) the next day. We didn't go to Lungdang, heard wonderful things about it afterwards and now regret not having made the effort.
In a direct line, Chumling is easily reached from Mu in a day. Chekempar is again a good lunch spot. But how about that side trip to Ripchet on the other bank of the river.....
Day 9: Chumling to Dheng (alt 1850m), 6 hrs.
From Chumling, it takes a bit more then two hours to hike back to Lokpa. We picked up the gear we had left there and pushed on towards the Manaslu trail. Lunch was had shortly after the Buri Gandhaki bridge, and we got to Dheng by mid afternoon (see day 4 on the Manaslu Trek).
