Trek Overview:
The Manaslu trek is a route of medium difficulty that cirumnavigates the Manaslu massif, usually walked in an anticlockwise direction, and culminating at the Larkya Pass at 5100m. The walk from the road head of Soti Khola in the Gorkha district to Dharapani at the top end of the Annapurna road covers a distance of more or less 150 kilometers, including a few side trips. An incursion to Mu Gumpa at the top of the the Tsum Valley will add some 70 km to the hike.
The Manaslu trek can be walked quite comfortably in 12 stages, whilst the Tsum valley side trip will take at least 4 or 5 nights extra. A total of 18 days for a Kathmandu to Kathmandu (or Pokhara) loop including Tsum is a good average, count 5 days less if you are not going to Tsum.
The trail is always well defined, reasonably sign posted and presents little navigational difficulties. It is slightly exposed in places, but no more so then any other Himalayan trail, and is nearly always wide enough to allow a perfectly safe passage, even when the path has to be shared with oncoming mule trains. With the help of a normal map, most hikers will find their way around without any difficulties.
The first three days are spent walking from village to village in lower Manaslu, below 1000 meters, on a fairly busy trail following the Buri Gandhaki river valley. Progress is tiring at time because of the high temperature, the humidity and the numerous steep climbs and drops over various hills and obstacles along the riverside.
For those heading up the Tsum valley, two days of gradual altitude gain will follow, till the valley widens and levels out at about 3000 meters. It is easy going after that, in an unspoilt pristine scenery where villages are far more Tibetan influenced then Nepali, a real Shangri La stretching all the way to the border with Tibet. Even the non Budhophiles will fall for the peaceful atmosphere, the beautiful light, the awesome scenery and the serenity of the valley.
Back on the main Manaslu trail, the village of Dheng marks the start of the higher Mansaslu area. From here on, the trail is less busy, and you will slowly gain altitude in 5 or 6 days days till your reach Samdo, 3700 m,, the last settlement on this side of the massif . The mountain views along the way are breathtaking, and many villages seem to be stuck in the middle ages... till you read the signs at the lodges offering high speed internet access.
From Samdo it is a short hike to the lodge at Dharmasala, 4400 m, followed by a longish (7 to 10 hrs) walk over the Larkya pass at 5100 to Bhimtang. Many trekking parties failed to cross the pass and had to turn back to Soti Khola while we trekked up, because of presumed excessive snow and ice on the western side of the pass. For those crossing in the fall when conditions might be uncertain, light crampons (sole spikes), ski sticks and a small length of rope are a safe precaution and could make the whole difference between a successful trek and a disappointing retreat. This equipment is cheap and readily available in Kathmandu. Note that there is very little information regarding the snow conditions over the pass available at any time, even in Samdo, and the vast majority of guides will try to turn their group back on vague hearsay, rather then giving it a go or establishing clearly the degree of risk involved. We heard many tall tales of porters killed and tourists slipping and breaking bones along the way, that all proved to be pure fantasy. This being said, we found the way was indeed steep, icy, slippery, exposed at times and that care was needed to guarantee a safe passage.
From Bimhtang, the Annapurna road head at Dharapani can be reached in one or two short stages. It is all downhill and you will be steaming ahead full speed, thanks to all these extra high altitude red blood cells. Dharapani is the end of the trek, although you can walk an extra day or two back south along the Kali Gandhaki; be warned, the Annapurna trail is a downer in more ways then one, especially after completing the Manaslu circuit.
Lodgings
Lodges and teahouses along the way are multiplying at an almost exponential rate; the quality of the facilities on offer is sharply on the rise, especially so in the upper Manaslu region and towards Bimthang. Lodges in lower Manaslu are adequate but usually devoid of much charm; in the Tsum valley facilities are simple, but are often quaint and not uncomfortable. A warm sleeping bag is needed, though lodges can provide blankets, with or without bugs. As a choice of sleeping bag, a genuine -10 degree should do, but note that a fake North Face -20 sleeping bag is equivalent probably to a genuine 0 degree. Toilets and washing facilities overall remain dismal, with some spectacular exception at either end of the scale dotted along the way. This is likely to improve, but slowly, as even some brand new lodges give little importance to bathroom functionalities and basic hygiene.
Food:
Food is adequate, almost exclusively vegetarian. It is the main source of income for all lodges (rooms are cheap, at about 2$/person) and eating can get expensive... even very expensive.
Menus are almost always identical wherever you are, with some price, portion size and quality variations. Up in the hills, a dahl bhat costs about 5$, fried noodle or rice with egg/veg 4$, eggs 1$ a piece, chapaties the same, soups about 3$, beer 5$. We averaged 20$ on food and drink per person per day over the whole trek, with Dharmasala guest house offering by far the poorest value.
Most guest houses rates are fixed by each local lodge association, so you are likely to pay pretty similar prices wherever you go in a given locality.
There is little point in bringing any food with you aside maybe some energy bars. You will find a full menu almost everywhere and will be able to stock up on mars bars and biscuits as you go. Bring a water purifying kit or tablets (from home or Kathmandu).
Power and communications:
Nearly all villages have now direct satellite phone connections, that are both inexpensive and very reliable. Internet is widely available through the same networks, and you will be able to check your mailbox and access the web at least 3 or 4 times along the way; guesthouses usually charge 5$ per overnight internet login, with an unlimited amount of data usage. On the other hand, mobile phone networks have yet to penetrate the area.
Electricity (220V) to charge cameras and other electronic equipment is often available, but not always. Big power consumers may find a USB power bank and/or a small USB photovoltaic cell very useful.
The Manaslu trek can be walked quite comfortably in 12 stages, whilst the Tsum valley side trip will take at least 4 or 5 nights extra. A total of 18 days for a Kathmandu to Kathmandu (or Pokhara) loop including Tsum is a good average, count 5 days less if you are not going to Tsum.
The trail is always well defined, reasonably sign posted and presents little navigational difficulties. It is slightly exposed in places, but no more so then any other Himalayan trail, and is nearly always wide enough to allow a perfectly safe passage, even when the path has to be shared with oncoming mule trains. With the help of a normal map, most hikers will find their way around without any difficulties.
The first three days are spent walking from village to village in lower Manaslu, below 1000 meters, on a fairly busy trail following the Buri Gandhaki river valley. Progress is tiring at time because of the high temperature, the humidity and the numerous steep climbs and drops over various hills and obstacles along the riverside.
For those heading up the Tsum valley, two days of gradual altitude gain will follow, till the valley widens and levels out at about 3000 meters. It is easy going after that, in an unspoilt pristine scenery where villages are far more Tibetan influenced then Nepali, a real Shangri La stretching all the way to the border with Tibet. Even the non Budhophiles will fall for the peaceful atmosphere, the beautiful light, the awesome scenery and the serenity of the valley.
Back on the main Manaslu trail, the village of Dheng marks the start of the higher Mansaslu area. From here on, the trail is less busy, and you will slowly gain altitude in 5 or 6 days days till your reach Samdo, 3700 m,, the last settlement on this side of the massif . The mountain views along the way are breathtaking, and many villages seem to be stuck in the middle ages... till you read the signs at the lodges offering high speed internet access.
From Samdo it is a short hike to the lodge at Dharmasala, 4400 m, followed by a longish (7 to 10 hrs) walk over the Larkya pass at 5100 to Bhimtang. Many trekking parties failed to cross the pass and had to turn back to Soti Khola while we trekked up, because of presumed excessive snow and ice on the western side of the pass. For those crossing in the fall when conditions might be uncertain, light crampons (sole spikes), ski sticks and a small length of rope are a safe precaution and could make the whole difference between a successful trek and a disappointing retreat. This equipment is cheap and readily available in Kathmandu. Note that there is very little information regarding the snow conditions over the pass available at any time, even in Samdo, and the vast majority of guides will try to turn their group back on vague hearsay, rather then giving it a go or establishing clearly the degree of risk involved. We heard many tall tales of porters killed and tourists slipping and breaking bones along the way, that all proved to be pure fantasy. This being said, we found the way was indeed steep, icy, slippery, exposed at times and that care was needed to guarantee a safe passage.
From Bimhtang, the Annapurna road head at Dharapani can be reached in one or two short stages. It is all downhill and you will be steaming ahead full speed, thanks to all these extra high altitude red blood cells. Dharapani is the end of the trek, although you can walk an extra day or two back south along the Kali Gandhaki; be warned, the Annapurna trail is a downer in more ways then one, especially after completing the Manaslu circuit.
Lodgings
Lodges and teahouses along the way are multiplying at an almost exponential rate; the quality of the facilities on offer is sharply on the rise, especially so in the upper Manaslu region and towards Bimthang. Lodges in lower Manaslu are adequate but usually devoid of much charm; in the Tsum valley facilities are simple, but are often quaint and not uncomfortable. A warm sleeping bag is needed, though lodges can provide blankets, with or without bugs. As a choice of sleeping bag, a genuine -10 degree should do, but note that a fake North Face -20 sleeping bag is equivalent probably to a genuine 0 degree. Toilets and washing facilities overall remain dismal, with some spectacular exception at either end of the scale dotted along the way. This is likely to improve, but slowly, as even some brand new lodges give little importance to bathroom functionalities and basic hygiene.
Food:
Food is adequate, almost exclusively vegetarian. It is the main source of income for all lodges (rooms are cheap, at about 2$/person) and eating can get expensive... even very expensive.
Menus are almost always identical wherever you are, with some price, portion size and quality variations. Up in the hills, a dahl bhat costs about 5$, fried noodle or rice with egg/veg 4$, eggs 1$ a piece, chapaties the same, soups about 3$, beer 5$. We averaged 20$ on food and drink per person per day over the whole trek, with Dharmasala guest house offering by far the poorest value.
Most guest houses rates are fixed by each local lodge association, so you are likely to pay pretty similar prices wherever you go in a given locality.
There is little point in bringing any food with you aside maybe some energy bars. You will find a full menu almost everywhere and will be able to stock up on mars bars and biscuits as you go. Bring a water purifying kit or tablets (from home or Kathmandu).
Power and communications:
Nearly all villages have now direct satellite phone connections, that are both inexpensive and very reliable. Internet is widely available through the same networks, and you will be able to check your mailbox and access the web at least 3 or 4 times along the way; guesthouses usually charge 5$ per overnight internet login, with an unlimited amount of data usage. On the other hand, mobile phone networks have yet to penetrate the area.
Electricity (220V) to charge cameras and other electronic equipment is often available, but not always. Big power consumers may find a USB power bank and/or a small USB photovoltaic cell very useful.
